Argonath RPG - A World of its own
Argonath RPG Community => Hardware/Software support => Resolved issues => Topic started by: TheLegitHabibi on September 14, 2013, 04:26:21 pm
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This is what I plan to buy. However I just wanna make sure its fine :).
Please do not reply if you don't know what you're talking about.
i5 3570K. (The unlocked is $5 extra, so yeah, tho I don't plan to OC in near future and don't even plan to buy a z77, but $5 is cheap)
GTX 660. (Should I go for Gigabyte version or Inno3D. Both have supposedly same specs but inno is $40 cheaper. I don't get it why. Does it have no heatsink on it or what. Should I buy inno?)
Mobo is Gigabyte GAB75MD3H. Its good I heard. I can't afford a z77 so .. I don't plan to OC so B75 is good I guess?
Ram would be regular Kingston 8gigs.
1Tb HDD. Standard DVD rw.
How much power do I need. Is 550 fine?
Thank you.
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Get gigabyte GPU.BTW how you goin to coop with Pakistan's electricity shortage?
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How flexible is your budget?
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600W PSU at least just to be safe
otherwise it looks good.
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Get gigabyte GPU.BTW how you goin to coop with Pakistan's electricity shortage?
Why gigabyte?
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The only difference I could notice between the Inno3D (http://www.inno3d.com/products/graphic_card/gf600/gtx_660.html) card and the Gigabyte (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125443) card (need confirmation that those are the ones you're looking at) is a ~50MHz higher clock on the latter, which should hardly make a difference, and whatever difference it does make shouldn't be worth an extra $40 in my opinion. I'd go for the Inno3D card.
As for the PSU, I'm with ElMartu, 600 is more on the safe side than 550.
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From my knowledge, Gigabyte is more popular manufacturer, that does produce quality products. As much as I have heard and read, people do not seem to occur any major issues with Gigabyte.
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This is what I plan to buy. However I just wanna make sure its fine :).
Please do not reply if you don't know what you're talking about.
i5 3570K. (The unlocked is $5 extra, so yeah, tho I don't plan to OC in near future and don't even plan to buy a z77, but $5 is cheap)
GTX 660. (Should I go for Gigabyte version or Inno3D. Both have supposedly same specs but inno is $40 cheaper. I don't get it why. Does it have no heatsink on it or what. Should I buy inno?)
Mobo is Gigabyte GAB75MD3H. Its good I heard. I can't afford a z77 so .. I don't plan to OC so B75 is good I guess?
Ram would be regular Kingston 8gigs.
1Tb HDD. Standard DVD rw.
How much power do I need. Is 550 fine?
Thank you.
CPU should be fine, just like mine, even tho you can buy at pretty much same price the new generation 4XXX cpus, 4770k etc.
Also why do you need a "K" processor if your motherboard can't do an overclock?
About the ram, me myself im not a fan of kingstone, even tho they are not bad, but should be fine, but you should pick atleast 1600Mhz ram which is about same price as 1336mhz.
PSU: Its not just about the Watts, The company is very very very important. i got 550W running a heavy machine with OC, my psu is like 6 years old and still there.
The reason is beacause i got Corsair and not some cheap PSU, the problem is if you buy some cpu from unknown company it may say "600W" but in reality it works as bad as 450 or even 400W.
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CPU should be fine, just like mine, even tho you can buy at pretty much same price the new generation 4XXX cpus, 4770k etc.
Also why do you need a "K" processor if your motherboard can't do an overclock?
About the ram, me myself im not a fan of kingstone, even tho they are not bad, but should be fine, but you should pick atleast 1600Mhz ram which is about same price as 1336mhz.
PSU: Its not just about the Watts, The company is very very very important. i got 550W running a heavy machine with OC, my psu is like 6 years old and still there.
The reason is beacause i got Corsair and not some cheap PSU, the problem is if you buy some cpu from unknown company it may say "600W" but in reality it works as bad as 450 or even 400W.
Yes, I'm buying the K variant as I'm just planning ahead.
Maybe after 3-4 years, I'll upgrade my board and/or graphic card. Having the K variant will help me then. Plus, its just $5, and I will not regret the decision in future.
The RAM, yes. Kingston and COrsair are almost the same price. But yeah, I'm buying the 1600 one.
Thank you for the help about the PSU. I'll definitly be buying a good brand. Corsair and Asus are the good brands.
:D Thanks man!
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Yes, I'm buying the K variant as I'm just planning ahead.
Maybe after 3-4 years, I'll upgrade my board and/or graphic card. Having the K variant will help me then. Plus, its just $5, and I will not regret the decision in future.
The RAM, yes. Kingston and COrsair are almost the same price. But yeah, I'm buying the 1600 one.
Thank you for the help about the PSU. I'll definitly be buying a good brand. Corsair and Asus are the good brands.
:D Thanks man!
Sure no worries :)
Here is all you need to know:
http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/323050.aspx
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To be safe, I usually get 750. It's only gonna use what it needs.
Also, if you're in the US, check out NewEgg deals, you can make some sweet combo deals for a cheaper price.
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This is what I plan to buy. However I just wanna make sure its fine :).
Please do not reply if you don't know what you're talking about.
i5 3570K. (The unlocked is $5 extra, so yeah, tho I don't plan to OC in near future and don't even plan to buy a z77, but $5 is cheap)
GTX 660. (Should I go for Gigabyte version or Inno3D. Both have supposedly same specs but inno is $40 cheaper. I don't get it why. Does it have no heatsink on it or what. Should I buy inno?)
Mobo is Gigabyte GAB75MD3H. Its good I heard. I can't afford a z77 so .. I don't plan to OC so B75 is good I guess?
Ram would be regular Kingston 8gigs.
1Tb HDD. Standard DVD rw.
How much power do I need. Is 550 fine?
Thank you.
i5 3570K Is based on older 2nd/3rd gen Sandy/Ivy Bridge tech (1155), 4th gen Haswell (1150) gear has been available for over a month. So forget about the whole "3-4" year thing, nothing 1155 based will be in production for much longer.
GTX 660 - The Inno3D card will more than likely be a reference card, that is built to nVidia specs with no vendor level customisation, if the Inno3d is cheaper go for it, $40 in your back pocket, is $40.
Gigabyte GAB75MD3H. B75's are not performance orientated chipsets and will do fine if you aren't thinking of overlocking, that being said with the right cooling solution you might be able to achieve a modest overclock.
This board doesn't support SLI, so forget about putting in a 2nd GTX660 down the road.
Assuming you're not going the Multi GPU route a good quality 600watt psu will do fine.
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i5 3570K Is based on older 2nd/3rd gen Sandy/Ivy Bridge tech (1155), 4th gen Haswell (1150) gear has been available for over a month. So forget about the whole "3-4" year thing, nothing 1155 based will be in production for much longer.
GTX 660 - The Inno3D card will more than likely be a reference card, that is built to nVidia specs with no vendor level customisation, if the Inno3d is cheaper go for it, $40 in your back pocket, is $40.
Gigabyte GAB75MD3H. B75's are not performance orientated chipsets and will do fine if you aren't thinking of overlocking, that being said with the right cooling solution you might be able to achieve a modest overclock.
This board doesn't support SLI, so forget about putting in a 2nd GTX660 down the road.
Assuming you're not going the Multi GPU route a good quality 600watt psu will do fine.
I'd buy the 4th Gen Haswell, but that would mean I would have to go for another motherboard, which goes out of budget.
I'm still confused about the inno3D, I'll check which one has a better warranty plan. I'll buy the one which has a better one. If they're the same, then I'm going for inno3d.
The motherboard is real cheap and I guess perfect for me :D
Thanks again!!
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I'd buy the 4th Gen Haswell, but that would mean I would have to go for another motherboard, which goes out of budget.
I'm still confused about the inno3D, I'll check which one has a better warranty plan. I'll buy the one which has a better one. If they're the same, then I'm going for inno3d.
The motherboard is real cheap and I guess perfect for me :D
Thanks again!!
If you've got your heart set on a cheap board, the B85 based Haswell boards should be around the same price as the B75s, unless of course you're in an area where retailers are gonna try to screw you over on the price of newer gear.
For example compare:
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4568#ov - B85 - $89 where I am
Vs
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8B75M_LX/ - B75 - $79 where I am
Then again if you have a retailer that won't play ball, you may not have much choice.
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If you've got your heart set on a cheap board, the B85 based Haswell boards should be around the same price as the B75s, unless of course you're in an area where retailers are gonna try to screw you over on the price of newer gear.
For example compare:
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4568#ov - B85 - $89 where I am
Vs
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8B75M_LX/ - B75 - $79 where I am
Then again if you have a retailer that won't play ball, you may not have much choice.
I researched a bit.
The haswell CPU which I found was almost the same in price as that of 3570K. Performance wise equal as well, but basically just future proof. If you know what I'm sayin.
Over here, the boards for Haswell are expensive simply because they're new. So I can't go for them. I am pretty sure I'll be able to find a board with the LGA 1155 Pin in future for OC.
Since performance is equal I can't spend more on a better board which isn't giving me something yet. :/.
I'm going for a 600 watt PSU then.
Thanks again
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If you get a better board (not really much expensive) grab a 4570k of i5. Man 4th gen brings EPIC power saving :D The chips eat very very less electricity, and you'll be gaining it back in no time by saving on electricity bills. :rolleyes:
Also 3rd gen intels heat the most.
other then that there's no major difference between 2 and 3rd gen either.
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Dude I am inspired from you and now I am planning to get 4th gen I7 8gb reg/corsair ram 1tb HDD w/SSD w/o SSD drives but with no gpu right now.
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Dude I am inspired from you and now I am planning to get 4th gen I7 8gb reg/corsair ram 1tb HDD w/SSD w/o SSD drives but with no gpu right now.
Grab a 4th gen i5. You'll save $100. Plus, when it comes to games i7 and i5 hardly show a difference. Both are mostly quad core.
The difference is if you render videos or multitask.
But if you're buying a 6 core i7. Then its good. But 6 physical cores are rare and only in some models. Mostly its quad core with hyperthreaded virtual cores. Which don't help at all in gaming.
You go and ask anywhere professional online, they're gonna recommend a i5 over i7. :)
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budget wise i5 is better but performance wise no way
if the guy has cash to blow why not just get the best
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I will be using your topic for my own help.I7 4770k is only 350$.Tomorrow I will be more specific as I will post pics of products.I7 is better than I5 even in gaming and yes I love multitasking.
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Unless he plans on doing some very CPU intensive tasks, he has no need for an i7 over i5. But even games are now heading to more and more core usage, therefore an i7 might be an advantage in the coming years.
As for a GPU, if he has a small budget he can grab an HD7770 (cheap card with great performance, runs BF3 on ultra at 1680x1050 with smooth fps (http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-7770-7750-benchmark,3135-6.html)). I'd recommend a GTX 560 Ti if it were $100 cheaper but that thing is a power hog, and the 7770 comes with ZeroPower technology, which saves you quite a bit on the electric bill.
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I an kind of broke.Even with CPU+ram+PSU+casing+fans I reach price uptop 860$ :( Maybe if you guys help me I think I can save few $$$.Please wait till tomorrow as I will be more I mean a lot specific
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People who buy i7 just think its better over i5.
No that's not the case. i5 3570K and i7 3770K are almost equivalent in games. Maybe i7 is 2 fps better at most.
Google is your friend buddy, that's the truth. True gamers buy i5. Go to toms hardware, they helped me a lot on chosig a CPU and GPU.
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People who buy i7 just think its better over i5.
No that's not the case. i5 3570K and i7 3770K are almost equivalent in games. Maybe i7 is 2 fps better at most.
Google is your friend buddy, that's the truth. True gamers buy i5. Go to toms hardware, they helped me a lot on chosig a CPU and GPU.
New games basically us hyper threading technology therefore I7 provide more threading power.I am not saying that you are wrong but what I am trying to say is that I7 will br much faster and it only makes a difference of 10 to 15 fps.For example if I transfer file,with I7 it will take few seconds hut with I5 it will also take less secs but not like I7
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Google is your buddy if you know how to determine what is legitimate and what is not. Clearly, there are many factors to processors and how they preform. Not to mention logical factors, such as I can have a 4core i7 compared to a 12core i5, obviously the i5 is going to preform better. However, in performance tests I've seen, in person both equiv brands and cores i5 v i7 against each other the i7 did a lot better, by a suburb amount. Yet, again there are many factors such as other hardware in the system (in the tests, the other hardware remained unchanged). If you change the hardware both chips might preform differently. It really depends on your build.
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Unless he plans on doing some very CPU intensive tasks, he has no need for an i7 over i5. But even games are now heading to more and more core usage, therefore an i7 might be an advantage in the coming years.
As for a GPU, if he has a small budget he can grab an HD7770 (cheap card with great performance, runs BF3 on ultra at 1680x1050 with smooth fps (http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-7770-7750-benchmark,3135-6.html)). I'd recommend a GTX 560 Ti if it were $100 cheaper but that thing is a power hog, and the 7770 comes with ZeroPower technology, which saves you quite a bit on the electric bill.
gtx 560 ti is of 300$ and now that out of my budget.I know how that feels :( my I7 4770k comes with Intel hd 4600 graphics so that's mean that I can play crysis 3 on it at very high settings
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Google is your buddy if you know how to determine what is legitimate and what is not. Clearly, there are many factors to processors and how they preform. Not to mention logical factors, such as I can have a 4core i7 compared to a 12core i5, obviously the i5 is going to preform better. However, in performance tests I've seen, in person both equiv brands and cores i5 v i7 against each other the i7 did a lot better, by a suburb amount. Yet, again there are many factors such as other hardware in the system (in the tests, the other hardware remained unchanged). If you change the hardware both chips might preform differently. It really depends on your build.
Teddy's right.
Top of that, it depends on what you're using it for.
Hyper threading doesn't help at games. Not even GTA V yet. You can Google that.
So if its a gaming PC, strictly speaking, GAMING PC. A quad core i5 is equivalent to quad core i7. (4 physical cores, not the hyperthreded cores).
BECAUSE, i7 is definitely powerful, but you won't be using its potential. Nor in GTA V not in Watchdogs. :) maybe maybe in future. Dunno bout that.
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Should you be looking for a gaming rig these days and ask yourself what CPU you should buy, then we can say, that the Core i5-4670K will be as sufficient as the i7-4770K. From a gaming performance point of view it really doesn't matter which of the two CPU's you buy. On the other hand, if you consider the price difference between these two CPU's, then the i5-4670K is almost 90 Euro cheaper and the i7-4770K. In case of a gaming PC the i5-4670K is definitely more value for money and the i7-4770K only makes sense, when you actually run applications, which benefit from eight virtual cores.
http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=1061&page=14
Detailed comparison between similar i5 and i7. Benchmarks for sky rim, far cry battle field and all that.
http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=1061&page=14
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http://www.techpowerup.com/mobile/reviews/Intel/Core_i5_4670K_and_i7_4770K_Comparison/1.html
I7 is a lot faster man! The difference if of around 10-15 fps with I7.I can't decide what to buy :pissed:
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http://www.techpowerup.com/mobile/reviews/Intel/Core_i5_4670K_and_i7_4770K_Comparison/1.html
I7 is a lot faster man! The difference if of around 10-15 fps with I7.I can't decide what to buy :pissed:
Well the i7 still costs $100 more, and the tests you see are done using the integrated graphics processors... So I suggest getting the i5 and using the money to get a 7770.
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Well the i7 still costs $100 more, and the tests you see are done using the integrated graphics processors... So I suggest getting the i5 and using the money to get a 7770.
You mean I5 4670k with 4.5 GHz?.Hey if you know a lot about computers then we will discuss it over pm?
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I have reached a total of 545$ for I5 4670k 3.5ghz+1tb hdd+motherboard+ram.
I don't know what kind of casing I need and powe supply and yea sound card too and cooling fans too! I mean liquid coolers.
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You mean I5 4670k with 4.5 GHz?.Hey if you know a lot about computers then we will discuss it over pm?
It's only 4.5GHz because they overclocked it majorly.. and I'm usually against overclocking since it could void your warranty should you go overboard.
But yeah, I'm talking about the 4670. Read about the 7770 here (http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-7770-7750-benchmark,3135.html) if you wish.
I have reached a total of 545$ for I5 4670k 3.5ghz+1tb hdd+motherboard+ram.
I don't know what kind of casing I need and powe supply and yea sound card too and cooling fans too! I mean liquid coolers.
For the PSU, anything that's not generic (as in unknown company) and above 500W should be decent (since Intel's processors don't usually have the high TDPs). If you can go up to 600W you might as well.
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Ragdoll if you want to give some of your time that would be great.
http://www.shophive.com/shophive/Computer-Parts-c-218.pakistan.html
Please select casing+power supply+cooler+motherboard for me.Please choose. Cheaper where possible.If the price is 10000rs divide it with 100 and you will get that in $
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Ragdoll if you want to give some of your time that would be great.
http://www.shophive.com/shophive/Computer-Parts-c-218.pakistan.html
Please select casing+power supply+cooler+motherboard for me.Please choose. Cheaper where possible.If the price is 10000rs divide it with 100 and you will get that in $
Can't help you with that since you're going with an LGA 1150 board and mine's an ASUS AM3+ board. If I'd known more of the 1150 boards I'd have helped but I do not want to be the one to give you any false info, though I'm sure someone else here should be better at picking those out. For the PSU, anything from Corsair or CoolerMaster that's above 550-600W is fine unless you're going with an SLI/CrossfireX build, which you're not.
I kinda like this case though: http://www.shophive.com/shophive/Cooler-Master-Silencio-550-p-10877.pakistan.html ...
... but yet again, that's my opinion on it, you're going to have to do some thinking of your own with these items.
For the coolers, there are only 3 on the website you gave me, none of which I'm familiar with, though the TX3 EVO does strike me as the best of the 3.
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The case you liked is cool but it looks small as when I have more Monet again I will surely upgrade my pc.
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Ok with CPU+case+ram+gpu+HDD+air cooler I have reached a value fo 840$.I want liquid coolers but they are quite complicated.Don't know how do I install every part.
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Ok with CPU+case+ram+gpu+HDD+air cooler I have reached a value fo 840$.I want liquid coolers but they are quite complicated.Don't know how do I install every part.
U don't need a liquid cooling system if you aren't over clocking. Just buy a good CPU cooler and some fans for the casing.
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U don't need a liquid cooling system if you aren't over clocking. Just buy a good CPU cooler and some fans for the casing.
Although it is true that you don't "need" them, I still highly recommend anyone out there getting a high-end computer to get liquid cooling regardless. Fans just cannot keep systems cool enough these days, and the heat lessens their life span greatly. Most manufacturers are still too cheap and lazy to include liquid cooling in pre-built systems unless they can use it as a marketing scheme, (such as what Alienware does).
As for the topic itself, did those who replied answer all of your questions satisfactorily?
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Although it is true that you don't "need" them, I still highly recommend anyone out there getting a high-end computer to get liquid cooling regardless. Fans just cannot keep systems cool enough these days, and the heat lessens their life span greatly. Most manufacturers are still too cheap and lazy to include liquid cooling in pre-built systems unless they can use it as a marketing scheme, (such as what Alienware does).
As for the topic itself, did those who replied answer all of your questions satisfactorily?
Actually wrong, the smaller the architecture the less heat there is... My last i5 4430, was going max 45C under full use if I recall correct, all that with 0DB, around 2k RPM with stock cooler.
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Arguing over what gives out more heat and what not is pretty much useless. The difference can be up to 10c even with same CPU and cooling system.
As for liquid cooling? Antec Kühler 920 does it's job more than good enough. My i5 3570K is overclocked up to 5 GHz and heat never goes up to 70 even with over-night prime95 test.
I've built ~500-800$/€/£ PCs for fellow furie members and family members and all seem to be happy with pretty much the same setup, difference being in what they use the PC for.
So here's the advice I can give you;
For CPU, if you're hardcore Intel fan / want a really good gaming experience, you can go something like i5 3570K and ~100€ motherboard to go with it. RAM I suggest Corsair Vengeance (cheap and very high reliability), let it be 4 GB or 8 GB, it's your call.
If you use your PC with all kinds of neat stuff (video/photo editing (I don't mean random memes, but the real deal), streaming, making let's play vids etc etc..) and not just gaming I'd go with AMD FX-8320 (8-cores) It's on-par with i5 in gaming yet wins when it comes to multitasking. Same RAM and price of mobo is highly recommended.
GPU? depends on if you want to use nVidia or AMD.
GTX 660 and above will run the newer games quite well. From AMD side I'd say 7770 and above does the same job.
As for PSU I'd say only consider Corsair. Nothing else has ever provided me with such quality. GTX 660 and 430W version is enough. With GTX 670 or higher go 500-600W. I got i5 3570K and GTX 680 running with 600W.
Case always get ATX size and motherboard the same. Read; NOT mATX.
HDD doesn't really make that big of a difference when it comes to gaming so that's your call, I would recommend going for Samsung tho' for reliability.
If I forgot something poke me in PM.
Note: This post has been in the mindset of gaming PC within the budget mentioned above.
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Actually wrong, the smaller the architecture the less heat there is... My last i5 4430, was going max 45C under full use if I recall correct, all that with 0DB, around 2k RPM with stock cooler.
That is not always true. It depends entirely on the design and usage. Some CPU's run hotter than others. Also, 45 degrees Celsius is by no means cool. Most may say that is a good temperature for a computer to run at...but remember: Computers in the mid-90's ran "hot" at 40 degrees Celsius. They often required fans right over their heatsinks just to keep the systems from damaging themselves. They were loud "space-heater" systems. Computers today run even hotter, and do many more calculations per second. They are being pushed even farther by high-end games too. Relying on the same technology from the mid 90's to cool something in the mid 2010's is just silly.
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That is not always true. It depends entirely on the design and usage. Some CPU's run hotter than others. Also, 45 degrees Celsius is by no means cool. Most may say that is a good temperature for a computer to run at...but remember: Computers in the mid-90's ran "hot" at 40 degrees Celsius. They often required fans right over their heatsinks just to keep the systems from damaging themselves. They were loud "space-heater" systems. Computers today run even hotter, and do many more calculations per second. They are being pushed even farther by high-end games too. Relying on the same technology from the mid 90's to cool something in the mid 2010's is just silly.
The new GPUs AND CPUs are made to last ~100 celcius degrees so your argument in this case is invalid.
As long as the celcius stays below 75 then you're good to go with little to no changes to it's lifespan.
And PCs that were in mid 90s mean nothing these days. Air cooling is more than sufficient enough to keep the CPU/GPU within it's "recommended" temperature limits.
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exactly. Getting liquid cooling isn't required unless you're OCing and shi.
Without OC air cooling and a good CPU cooler is good enough. :)
Anyways my queries are resolved :) ty
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The new GPUs AND CPUs are made to last ~100 celcius degrees so your argument in this case is invalid.
As long as the celcius stays below 75 then you're good to go with little to no changes to it's lifespan.
And PCs that were in mid 90s mean nothing these days. Air cooling is more than sufficient enough to keep the CPU/GPU within it's "recommended" temperature limits.
Recommended doesn't mean it is a real-world answer. Recommended means just that...recommended. Everything wears out eventually in this world, no matter what it is. The more you abuse it, the faster it wears out.
As for air cooling, not at heavy operating temperatures. I dare someone here to run GTA IV, Crysis 3, or some other super graphically-intense game on their system with only fans cooling it and tell me it doesn't get hot.
It is a known fact that heat kills computers faster. It is also a known fact that when they get hot, they tend to slow down. The reason being is that electrons cannot pass through the metal circuits as quickly because they are expanding under the heat, and taking up more room in the metal as they move through it, essentially causing a "traffic jam". If you keep the computer very cool while under heavy load, your system will not only perform better, but will last longer. Long story short, heat causes wear and tear on any electronics, computers included. The more there is, the worse it gets.
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My old CPU lasted for 5? years or so when overclocked to it's limits, with STOCK intel's cooler.
The difference in CPU's lifespan that comes from the heat and heat alone is insignificant.
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My old CPU lasted for 5? years or so when overclocked to it's limits, with STOCK intel's cooler.
The difference in CPU's lifespan that comes from the heat and heat alone is insignificant.
5 years is nothing for a CPU. I have one from 1995 that is still going strong. If your CPU died after just 5 years of use, then it is definitely having heat issues. Overclocking also intensifies the heat of a CPU greatly. Most computer techs that believe in overclocking will also tell you to use liquid cooling any time you overclock a CPU. They are not meant to be pushed that far, hence "overclocking".
I'm using a computer right now that is about 5 years old, overclocked, and has been on liquid cooling the entire time. Same for my server sitting next to it, which is about 8 years old now. No heat or damage issues whatsoever.
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Under normal weather conditions, and with stock cooling, my CPU idles at ~15. In cold weather it usually idles at 9, and under full load, it maxes out at like 35-40. As for the GPU, it idles at ~25 and maxes out at ~50 (under full stress- like BF3, GTA 4, etc...)
So yeah, stock cooling isn't always shit.
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Under normal weather conditions, and with stock cooling, my CPU idles at ~15. In cold weather it usually idles at 9, and under full load, it maxes out at like 35-40. As for the GPU, it idles at ~25 and maxes out at ~50 (under full stress- like BF3, GTA 4, etc...)
So yeah, stock cooling isn't always shit.
Impossible.
Your CPU can't go below room temperature with air cooling.
SugarD: I never said the CPU isn't working anymore, more so that I'm not using it anymore. Infact I sold the CPU to a family member with a good price and it still runs with the same overclocks (E5200 @ 4.5 GHz) if you wondered what it is. And no, it wasn't a particularly good version, due to being Costa Rica version.
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Impossible.
Your CPU can't go below room temperature with air cooling.
(http://i44.tinypic.com/2yjzypv.png)
Temperatures outside (and inside) are nearing 25 degrees. And the chances of the sensors being damaged are 1 in a billion, since I haven't had this CPU for more than a month, and installation had no issues as far as I know.
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(http://i44.tinypic.com/2yjzypv.png)
Temperatures outside (and inside) are nearing 25 degrees. And the chances of the sensors being damaged are 1 in a billion, since I haven't had this CPU for more than a month, and installation had no issues as far as I know.
Sensors are not always accurate with these programs, so be warned. SpeedFan also has the same issue. Sometimes the sensors report false readings, or motherboards have sensors hooked up that are meant for other features that don't get included in that specific model. (This is also the reason why these programs sometimes detect non-existent sensors, CPU cores, or fans that aren't actually there).
Not saying this is the case for you, however do keep it in mind. Even BIOS sensor readings can be wrong sometimes on systems that have the feature natively.
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Sensors are not always accurate with these programs, so be warned. SpeedFan also has the same issue. Sometimes the sensors report false readings, or motherboards have sensors hooked up that are meant for other features that don't get included in that specific model. (This is also the reason why these programs sometimes detect non-existent sensors, CPU cores, or fans that aren't actually there).
Not saying this is the case for you, however do keep it in mind. Even BIOS sensor readings can be wrong sometimes on systems that have the feature natively.
Pretty much this, only really reliable way of checking temps is to insert a sensor of your own between the heatsink and the CPU to see how hot the CPU actually gets (and even this is not 100% accurate)
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That may be a little more reliable way of checking the temperature however it will not give the internal core temperature but the temperature being dispersed from the CPU through the thermal compound. :sweat:
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Yeah, as I said it's not 100% accurate either.